Linked double crochet is a crochet stitch variation that connects neighboring double crochet stitches through a horizontal bar or side loop, reducing the open spaces created by ordinary double crochet. The result is a taller, more cohesive fabric worked with a standard crochet hook, although its density, stretch, and drape depend on yarn, hook size, and tension.
Key Facts / Quick Answer
Linked double crochet uses the side bar of the previous stitch before entering the next stitch.
The technique keeps double-crochet height while producing less open fabric than standard double crochet.
A typical swatch uses about 10-15% more yarn than comparable regular double crochet.
The fabric usually has less horizontal stretch and more weight than ordinary double crochet.
A hook 0.5-1 millimeter larger than the yarn label recommendation often prevents overly tight links.
Smooth, plied yarn is easier to work than bouclé, chenille, or heavily brushed yarn.
What Is Linked Double Crochet?
Linked double crochet is a connected version of the regular double crochet stitch. Instead of beginning each stitch independently with a yarn-over and insertion into the next base stitch, the crocheter first inserts the hook into a side bar of the previous stitch, pulls up a loop, and then completes the double crochet through the next base stitch.
That added connection closes much of the vertical space between stitch posts. It does not create a completely airtight fabric, however. Large hooks, loose tension, lightweight yarn, or a loosely constructed foundation chain can still leave visible openings.
The stitch is also called LDC in many patterns. Pattern writers do not always use identical insertion terminology, so the abbreviation should be checked against the designer’s written instructions or symbol chart.
What the Stitch Is Not
Linked double crochet is not Tunisian crochet, even though both techniques can produce a comparatively dense fabric. Tunisian crochet generally uses a forward pass and return pass, while linked double crochet completes each stitch during one conventional crochet pass with a standard hook.
It is also not the same as crocheting into the back loop or third loop. Those placements change the appearance and stretch of a stitch, but they do not necessarily connect adjacent double crochet posts.
How Does the Linking Mechanism Work?
The linking mechanism joins the side of one completed stitch to the body of the next stitch. In a common right-handed method, the hook enters the horizontal bar near the center or lower side of the previous stitch, draws up a loop, then enters the next stitch of the foundation row before the double crochet is completed.
The visible result is a row with linked bases and fewer pronounced gaps. The connection changes the fabric in four practical ways:
| Attribute | Regular double crochet | Linked double crochet | Practical consequence |
|---|---|---|---|
| Typical height | 8-12 mm per stitch in worsted yarn | 8-12 mm per stitch in worsted yarn | Rows still build relatively quickly |
| Side openings | 2-4 mm commonly visible | 0.5-2 mm commonly visible | Small items pass through less easily |
| Horizontal stretch | 15-30% in a typical swatch | 10-22% in a typical swatch | Fabric feels more stable |
| Yarn requirement | Baseline | Typically 1.10-1.15 times baseline | A larger yarn allowance is sensible |
These figures are typical workshop planning ranges, not universal laboratory values. Yarn fiber, ply, hook material, stitch count, and washing can change every measurement.
The most important visual cue is the bar created by the preceding stitch. If the bar is difficult to find, the crocheter is usually working too tightly or using a yarn with too much surface texture.
How Do You Work Linked Double Crochet?
To work one linked double crochet in the middle of a row, connect the previous stitch first, then complete a normal double crochet through the next base stitch. The sequence below describes a common version of the technique.
- Make a foundation chain or a row of setup stitches.
- Yarn over and insert the hook into the horizontal side bar of the previous double crochet.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop. Two loops are now on the hook.
- Insert the hook into the next stitch of the foundation row.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop. Three loops are now on the hook.
- Yarn over and pull through two loops.
- Yarn over and pull through the final two loops.
The first linked stitch can require a special setup because no completed double crochet is available on its left side. Some patterns use the turning chain as part of the first link. Others work an ordinary first stitch and begin linking with the second stitch.
How Do You Link the First Stitch?
The first-stitch method depends on the pattern. A common setup treats the turning chain or an adjacent chain as the first vertical element, then inserts the hook into the second chain from the hook to create a connecting loop before entering the next base stitch.
This edge treatment prevents a large open space beside the turning chain. It can also make the row edge look less straight if the chain is pulled tightly. When learning, make a 12- to 16-stitch swatch and compare both edge methods before starting a garment or blanket.
How Do You Turn the Next Row?
A turning chain may count as a stitch, act only as a height spacer, or be replaced by a linked beginning stitch. These choices affect stitch count and edge height.
For a stable edge:
- Mark the first and last actual stitches.
- Count the turning chain separately until the pattern explains its role.
- Avoid pulling the first link tight against the edge.
- Insert into the same structural bars used in the body of the row.
- Check that each row has the intended stitch count before continuing.
In practice, inconsistent first stitches cause more crooked edges than incorrect body links.
Which Linked Stitches Exist?
Linked stitches can be made at several heights. The added side connection increases cohesion at each height, but taller stitches require more careful placement because their posts contain more than one possible bar.
| Stitch variation | Common abbreviation | Typical row height | Typical fabric character | Suitable uses |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Linked single crochet | LSC | 4-6 mm | Compact and firm | Borders, dense panels |
| Linked half double crochet | LHDC | 6-9 mm | Dense with moderate flexibility | Baskets, cushions, housewares |
| Linked double crochet | LDC | 8-12 mm | Medium-dense and moderately drapey | Blankets, bags, sweaters |
| Linked treble crochet | LTC or LTR | 12-18 mm | Tall with larger linking demands | Fast-growing wraps, textured panels |
Linked half double crochet is often easier to control than linked double crochet because the stitch is shorter and the side bar is closer to the working loop. Linked treble crochet can build fabric quickly, but the correct bars must be identified consistently or the stitch post becomes unstable.
Terminology varies by region. “Treble” means a taller stitch than double crochet in US terminology, while UK terminology uses different names for equivalent stitches. Follow the pattern’s stated terminology rather than the abbreviation alone.
What Fabric Does the Technique Produce?
Linked double crochet creates a fabric with reduced air permeability, moderate drape, and lower horizontal stretch than regular double crochet. The fabric remains taller and generally faster to work than single crochet, but it is not as fluid or open as standard double crochet.
| Fabric property | Typical linked result | Regular double crochet result | What changes in use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air movement | Low to moderate | Moderate to high | Better coverage for bags and blankets |
| Horizontal stretch | 10-22% in a 10 cm swatch | 15-30% in the same swatch | Waistbands may need separate stretch planning |
| Drape | Moderate | Moderate to high | Garments can feel more structured |
| Weight per area | About 1.10-1.20 times regular DC | Baseline | Large blankets become heavier |
| Reversibility | Usually visually similar on both sides | Usually visually similar on both sides | Useful for scarves and reversible panels |
The connection does not automatically make a fabric windproof, waterproof, or lining-free. A dense wool swatch may block more air than cotton, while a loosely tensioned acrylic swatch may remain relatively open.
A useful practitioner test is to hold a finished swatch over printed text. If letters remain clearly visible, the fabric may still require a lining for a tote or garment. That test is more useful than assuming a stitch name guarantees coverage.
What Yarn and Hook Should You Use?
Smooth, plied yarn and a hook 0.5-1 mm larger than the label recommendation are reliable starting points for linked double crochet. The larger hook creates room around the connecting bar, while a smooth yarn makes the insertion point visible.
| Yarn category | Typical hook starting range | Link visibility | Approximate yarn increase | Best starting project |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DK, 3-weight | 4.0-4.5 mm | High | 10-15% | Scarf or small panel |
| Worsted, 4-weight | 5.0-6.0 mm | High | 10-15% | Bag or blanket square |
| Bulky, 5-weight | 6.5-8.0 mm | Medium | 8-15% | Cushion or warm cowl |
| Chenille or bouclé | Label size plus 0.5-1 mm | Low | 10-20% | Experienced swatcher only |
These yarn allowances are typical estimates. The added movement through the side bar and the denser overlap usually consume more yarn than an equivalent regular double crochet row, but a loose gauge can erase much of that difference.
Cotton shows the structure clearly but can produce a firm fabric. Wool provides warmth and recovery, while acrylic is affordable and washable but may relax after laundering. Fuzzy yarn hides bars, and chenille can split or shed when the hook repeatedly searches for the insertion point.
How Much Yarn Should You Buy?
For planning, buy one additional 50-gram ball for every 8-10 balls estimated for regular double crochet, unless a swatch gives a more precise result. A 1,000-meter blanket estimate may become roughly 1,100-1,150 meters in the linked version.
Wash and dry the gauge swatch according to the finished item’s care instructions. Cotton can relax and widen, wool can bloom and shrink, and acrylic can flatten under heat. Final measurements should be taken after that treatment.
When Should You Use Linked Double Crochet?
Use linked double crochet when a project needs double-crochet height with more coverage and structure than ordinary double crochet provides. It works particularly well for bags, blankets, panels, and garments where visible holes would be inconvenient.
Good applications include:
- Baby blankets where reduced openings are desirable.
- Tote bags that should retain small objects.
- Sweaters or crop tops that need more coverage.
- Scarves and cowls requiring a reversible surface.
- Cushion covers and housewares needing a firm panel.
- Color-blocked projects where the connected surface emphasizes clean sections.
The stitch is less suitable for lace, hot-weather mesh, highly elastic fitted clothing, or very large blankets where extra fabric weight matters. A regular double crochet fabric may be the better choice when airflow and fluid movement are the design goals.
For baby items, reduced gaps can lower the chance of fingers catching in the fabric, but stitch density does not replace general product-safety judgment. Secure ends, avoid detachable decorations, and follow the care requirements of the yarn.
How Does It Compare With Other Stitches?
Linked double crochet occupies the middle ground between open regular double crochet and compact single crochet. Tunisian simple stitch can create similar coverage, but it uses a different construction method and often needs a longer hook.
| Criterion | Linked double crochet | Regular double crochet | Single crochet | Tunisian simple stitch |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tool | Standard crochet hook | Standard crochet hook | Standard crochet hook | Tunisian or long hook often preferred |
| Row speed | Medium-fast | Fast | Slowest of these options | Medium |
| Open spaces | Low | Moderate to high | Low | Low |
| Drape | Moderate | High | Low to moderate | Moderate, often denser |
| Horizontal stretch | Low to moderate | Moderate to high | Low | Low to moderate |
| Common issue | Tight side bars | Excessive gaps | Heavy fabric | Edge curl |
| Best match | Covered panels | Lace-like fabric | Firm shapes | Dense textured fabric |
Linked double crochet is not a universal replacement for regular double crochet. If a pattern depends on open spacing, a linked version may change the finished dimensions, yarn usage, and drape enough to require a full redesign.
What Are the Main Costs and Time Requirements?
The technique itself costs nothing beyond ordinary crochet equipment, but a paid pattern commonly costs $5-$9 USD and a typical swatch takes 10-15 minutes after the basic motion is understood. Production is often 10-20% slower than regular double crochet during early practice.
| Planning item | Typical range | Main cost or time driver | Practical allowance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Paid digital pattern | $5-$9 USD | Designer complexity and grading | Budget before yarn |
| First practice swatch | 10-15 minutes | Finding the side bar | Use 12-16 stitches |
| Experienced-row speed | 80-95% of regular DC | Repeated link insertion | Improves with smooth yarn |
| Yarn allowance | 110-115% of regular DC | Denser stitch path | Buy extra yardage |
| Hook adjustment | 0.5-1.0 mm larger | Tightness at the link | Confirm with gauge |
A crocheter who already knows regular double crochet usually learns the movement within one or two swatches. The difficulty is not completing the final two pull-throughs. It is locating the correct side bar without splitting yarn or pulling the loop too tightly.
What Problems Occur With Linked Double Crochet?
Most problems come from incorrect bar placement, excessive tension, or an inconsistent first stitch. Each error changes both the appearance and the mechanical behavior of the row.
| Symptom | Likely cause | Immediate correction | Result if ignored |
|---|---|---|---|
| Next stitch is hard to enter | Link pulled too tightly | Loosen the drawn-up loop | Stiff, compressed fabric |
| Large gap at row edge | First stitch was not linked | Use the pattern’s edge setup | Uneven side seam |
| Slanted or twisted row | Different bars used across the row | Mark the correct side bar | Irregular stitch posts |
| Fabric becomes wider | Extra stitch near turning chain | Count actual stitches | Incorrect project size |
| Yarn splits repeatedly | Blunt hook or loose plies | Use a sharper, smoother hook | Frayed yarn and slow work |
| Treble link collapses | Incorrect post bar selected | Identify every required bar | Weak, unstable stitch |
One counterintuitive point matters: a denser stitch is not always a tighter stitch. If the connecting loop is loose but the fabric is worked with a sufficiently large hook, linked double crochet can retain useful drape. Density and tension are related, but they are not identical.
Another practitioner rule is to correct the first three stitches immediately. A missed body link can be hidden in a large project, while a wrong edge setup repeats the visual error across every row.
How Can You Test the Finished Fabric?
Make a swatch at least 12 centimeters wide and 12 centimeters tall, then measure the center after washing. Do not measure the foundation chain alone because its tension often differs from the working rows.
Use this five-step test:
- Work 16-20 stitches across at least 12 rows.
- Record the hook size, yarn fiber, and stitch count.
- Wash and dry the swatch using the intended care method.
- Measure stitches and rows across the center 10 centimeters.
- Test stretch, drape, opacity, and weight against the project requirements.
| Test | Acceptable planning question | Warning result |
|---|---|---|
| Opacity | Can printed text be read through the swatch? | Lining may be required |
| Stretch | Does the fabric return after a 10% pull? | Garment may grow |
| Edge stability | Does the side remain straight after washing? | Revise turning method |
| Weight | Does the swatch feel heavy for its size? | Large item may sag |
| Stitch access | Can the next-row bars be found easily? | Increase hook size or loosen tension |
A gauge match alone does not guarantee a successful garment. Two swatches can have identical stitch counts while differing substantially in drape and recovery.
Frequently Asked Questions About What Is Linked Double Crochet
Does linked double crochet use more yarn than regular double crochet?
Usually, yes. A typical linked double crochet swatch uses about 10-15% more yarn than a comparable regular double crochet swatch because each stitch includes an additional connecting path. Measure a sample when yarn quantity is tight, especially for blankets and large garments.
Is linked double crochet reversible?
Linked double crochet is usually visually similar on both sides, but the two faces may not be perfectly identical. The side bars and completed stitch posts can create a subtle directional difference. For a reversible scarf, work a swatch first and choose the face that gives the cleaner horizontal line.
Can you substitute this stitch in a regular double crochet pattern?
You can substitute it for a fabric panel only after checking gauge, drape, stitch count, and yarn quantity. The linked structure commonly reduces stretch and increases weight, so a garment may fit more closely and a blanket may require more yarn than the original pattern specifies.
Why is the first linked stitch difficult?
The first linked stitch is difficult because the previous completed double crochet does not yet exist. The turning chain or setup stitch must provide the starting bar. If a pattern does not explain that edge construction clearly, make a small swatch using both a counted turning chain and a non-counted turning chain.
Is linked double crochet good for a tote bag?
Linked double crochet is a practical tote-bag stitch because it reduces openings and creates a stable panel with ordinary hooks. It still may need a fabric lining if the yarn is loose, the bag carries small objects, or the finished fabric stretches under load. Add a firm base for heavier contents.
Can you use textured yarn for the stitch?
Textured yarn can be used, but smooth yarn is easier for learning and consistent gauge. Bouclé, chenille, and fuzzy yarn can hide the side bar, causing skipped links and uneven posts. Practice first with a smooth worsted or DK yarn, then switch to texture after the insertion path is automatic.
Conclusion
Linked double crochet connects neighboring double crochet stitches through side bars, producing taller fabric with fewer openings and moderate structure. The technique is most useful when regular double crochet is too airy but single crochet is too short or heavy. Make a washed gauge swatch, allow roughly 10-15% more yarn, and use the exact insertion method specified by the pattern before committing to a full project.