A post stitch in crochet is a textured technique worked around the vertical body, or post, of a previous stitch rather than through its top loops. The hook position moves the new stitch toward the front or back, creating raised ribs, elastic fabric, cables, basketweave, and other three-dimensional effects.
Key Facts / Quick Answer
A post stitch wraps around the vertical stem of a completed stitch.
A front post stitch projects toward the crocheter; a back post stitch recedes and creates a ridge on the visible side.
Front post double crochet is abbreviated FPdc; back post double crochet is BPdc.
The base row usually contains double crochet or another sufficiently tall stitch.
Post stitches normally use more yarn and create thicker fabric than ordinary rows, but the exact increase depends on stitch height, spacing, and tension.
A standard hook and yarn are sufficient; typical practice materials cost about $3-$12 in the United States.
How Does a Post Stitch Work?
A post stitch works by encircling the vertical stem of a base stitch, changing the direction and relief of the fabric without inserting the hook into the stitch’s top V. The post is the pair of vertical strands below the top loops, and the new stitch anchors around that structure.
In a conventional double crochet, the hook enters the top loops of a stitch. In a post stitch, the hook travels horizontally around the stitch body. The resulting yarn column sits in front of or behind the base row, which changes both surface height and fabric density.
The base stitch must be tall enough to expose a usable post. Double crochet is the most common foundation because its post is easy to identify, while single crochet is generally too short for clean, full-height post work.
Post stitches do not replace the top of the base stitch automatically. Patterns often instruct you to work around a post and then skip the corresponding top stitch, because working into both locations can create an unintended increase.
The Parts of a Crochet Stitch
| Stitch feature | Location | Function in post work | Common mistake |
|---|---|---|---|
| Top V | Upper edge of the stitch | Used for ordinary stitches | Mistaken for the post |
| Front loop | Near side of top V | Used by FLO techniques | Chosen instead of the stem |
| Back loop | Far side of top V | Used by BLO techniques | Confused with the rear of the post |
| Post | Vertical body below top V | Wrapped by FP or BP stitches | Missed when rows are crowded |
| Turning chain | Row edge | Establishes height | Counted inconsistently |
What Are the Main Types of Post Stitches?
The main types are front post and back post stitches, with the stitch height named after the underlying stitch. FPdc and BPdc are the standard beginner forms, but the same front or back pathway can be applied to half double crochet, treble crochet, and taller stitches.
- Front post stitch: The hook passes from the front around the post and returns to the front.
- Back post stitch: The hook passes from the back around the post and returns to the back.
- Post half double crochet: A shorter textured stitch with less height and a denser appearance.
- Post treble crochet: A taller stitch that produces deeper relief and longer vertical ridges.
- Alternating post stitches: Front and back placements create ribs, basketweave, and geometric panels.
| Abbreviation | Full name | Typical relief | Common use |
|---|---|---|---|
| FPhdc | Front post half double crochet | Low to medium | Dense hat bands |
| BPhdc | Back post half double crochet | Low to medium | Compact ribbing |
| FPdc | Front post double crochet | Medium | Cables and raised ribs |
| BPdc | Back post double crochet | Medium | Recessed channels |
| FPtr | Front post treble crochet | High | Open cables and deep motifs |
| BPtr | Back post treble crochet | High | Dramatic relief panels |
How Do You Make a Front Post Double Crochet?
To make an FPdc, yarn over, insert the hook from front to back around the target post, return the hook from back to front, and complete a double crochet using the loops on the hook. The finished stitch stands in front of the base fabric.
- Yarn over once.
- Insert the hook from front to back beside the target post.
- Bring the hook from back to front on the opposite side of that post.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop.
- Yarn over, pull through two loops.
- Yarn over, pull through the final two loops.
Keep the hook shaft close to the post. A loose horizontal loop can leave a visible gap, while excessive tension compresses the post and makes the rib rigid.
How Do You Make a Back Post Double Crochet?
To make a BPdc, yarn over, insert the hook from back to front around the target post, return the hook from front to back, and complete a double crochet. The stitch recedes from the working side, so adjacent FPdc stitches appear raised by contrast.
The entry path is the reverse of FPdc. The yarn-over sequence remains the same, which makes the technique easier to learn as a pair. Work a small swatch before a garment because the visible result changes when BPdc is used on the wrong side.
Why Do Post Stitches Create Texture and Stretch?
Post stitches create texture because their vertical yarn columns sit in front of or behind the base row instead of lying evenly along the top edge. Their stretch comes mainly from the spaces and folds between raised columns, not from the post stitch itself behaving like elastic.
Alternating FPdc and BPdc produces vertical ribs. Repeated groups of post stitches can cross over one another to form cables, while balanced front and back placements create basketweave squares.
The fabric usually becomes thicker because the working path travels around a longer route. A typical swatch may use roughly 10%-30% more yarn than a plain double-crochet swatch of identical dimensions, but that is a practical estimate, not a universal measured standard.
Post-stitch fabric is not automatically “double thick.” A tightly packed rib can approach two layers in some areas, while a widely spaced cable panel remains comparatively flexible.
How Do Front and Back Placement Change the Fabric?
| Arrangement | Surface result | Stretch direction | Typical fabric behavior |
|---|---|---|---|
| All FPdc | Continuous raised columns | Moderate crosswise stretch | Strong vertical texture |
| All BPdc | Recessed channels on front | Moderate crosswise stretch | Structured ridges |
| FPdc and BPdc alternation | Ribbed surface | Higher crosswise stretch | Useful for cuffs |
| Cable crossings | Braided relief | Reduced across cable | Dense and directional |
| Basketweave blocks | Intersecting squares | Moderate in both directions | Thick, stable fabric |
What Materials and Gauge Should You Use?
Smooth, plied yarn in a light or solid color gives the clearest view of a post. A medium-weight acrylic, wool, cotton, or wool blend works well for practice, while fuzzy yarn and strongly variegated color can hide the entry path and make mistakes difficult to diagnose.
Use the yarn label’s recommended hook first, then adjust after measuring the fabric. Going up one hook size can soften a dense rib, but it can also create gaps and reduce stitch definition, so “always size up” is not a reliable rule.
| Material choice | Typical US price | Definition | Suitable first project |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic worsted yarn, 100 g | $3-$7 | Clear and forgiving | Practice swatch |
| Cotton worsted yarn, 100 g | $4-$9 | Very clear, less elastic | Dishcloth or basket |
| Wool worsted yarn, 100 g | $8-$15 | Clear, springy | Hat or cuff |
| Smooth sport yarn, 100 g | $5-$12 | Fine, more precise | Sweater panel |
| Aluminum crochet hook | $2-$10 | Adequate for all post types | General practice |
Make a gauge swatch at least 12 cm wide and 12 cm tall, or about 20 stitches by 12 rows for worsted yarn. Measure after the swatch rests flat. If the fabric feels board-like, loosen tension or increase the hook by 0.5-1.0 mm; if the posts disappear, reduce the hook size or work more deliberately.
What Does a Post-Stitch Project Usually Cost and Take?
A small practice swatch typically requires $3-$12 of yarn and 15-30 minutes of work. A hat may require $8-$25 in yarn and 2-5 hours, while a textured blanket can require $40-$150 or more and 20-60 hours, depending on dimensions, fiber, stitch density, and maker speed.
| Project | Typical yarn quantity | Typical yarn cost | Typical working time |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12 cm practice swatch | 15-30 g | $1-$5 | 15-30 minutes |
| Adult ribbed hat | 80-120 g | $8-$25 | 2-5 hours |
| 45 cm cushion cover | 250-400 g | $15-$45 | 6-12 hours |
| 90 cm baby blanket | 700-1,000 g | $35-$100 | 20-40 hours |
| Adult textured cardigan | 1,000-1,600 g | $60-$180 | 35-70 hours |
These are typical United States retail ranges for standard yarn and do not include pattern fees, shipping, blocking tools, or labor. Post stitches often take 20%-50% longer per row than plain stitches because each target post requires a more deliberate insertion path.
When Should You Choose Post Stitches?
Choose post stitches when you need relief, structure, or moderate rib-like stretch. They suit hat bands, cuffs, blankets, textured scarves, cable panels, baskets, and panels where the surface pattern matters more than maximum drape.
Post stitches are less suitable for lightweight shawls, fluid garments, fine lace, and projects where a smooth color motif must remain dominant. Their extra yarn path can add bulk, and dense post work may make a garment heavier than its plain-stitch equivalent.
In practice, post stitches are especially effective at edges. A band of alternating FPdc and BPdc can stabilize an opening while retaining more recovery than a simple BLO edge, although ribbing direction and garment construction still determine the final fit.
A “post” pattern also benefits from a stable base row. If the base row is loose, the raised columns lean or separate; if it is too tight, the post becomes difficult to enter.
Post Stitches Versus Other Texturing Methods
Post stitches wrap around the vertical stem, whereas FLO and BLO use one top loop and surface crochet adds stitches over completed fabric. The methods differ in relief, stretch, reversibility, yarn use, and repairability.
| Method | Hook path | Visible relief | Typical stretch | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Post stitch | Around vertical stem | 3-8 mm raised texture | Moderate to high | Ribs and cables |
| FLO | Through front top loop | 1-2 mm horizontal ridge | Moderate | Fold lines and texture |
| BLO | Through back top loop | 1-2 mm horizontal ridge | Moderate | Ribbed edges |
| Surface crochet | Slip stitch over surface | 1-3 mm cord-like line | Low | Outlines and decoration |
| Front loop slip stitch | Front loop only | Under 1 mm | Low to moderate | Flexible joins |
Post stitches are more structural than surface crochet. Surface crochet is faster for adding a line to finished work, but it does not create the same integrated relief and can snag if used on a high-friction edge.
Is a Post Stitch the Same as Front-Loop or Back-Loop Crochet?
A post stitch is not the same as FLO or BLO. FLO and BLO separate the two top loops of a stitch, while a post stitch bypasses those loops and encloses the stitch body below them.
The visual distinction is useful: FLO and BLO commonly create horizontal ridges because the working row remains near the top edge. Post stitches create vertical columns, raised bumps, or recessed channels because the stitch is redirected around the stem.
Is Surface Crochet an Alternative to Post Stitching?
Surface crochet is an alternative when the goal is a decorative line on an existing fabric rather than integrated three-dimensional structure. It uses slip stitches worked over the surface and can outline shapes without rebuilding the original rows.
Use surface crochet for lettering, borders, outlines, and color accents. Use post stitches for elasticity, cables, architectural texture, or a fabric whose relief must be formed during construction.
How Should You Work Post Stitches on Wrong-Side Rows?
On a wrong-side row, the visual front and the hook’s working side reverse. To preserve a raised column on the public side, many patterns use BPdc where an equivalent right-side row used FPdc, but the exact instruction depends on whether the pattern is designed to alternate or mirror the texture.
Turn the work and identify the post from the new viewing side. Do not rely on the phrase “front” as a permanent reference to the garment’s public face. In a reversible rib, front and back designations describe the side currently facing you.
A practical rule is to mark the public side of the swatch with a removable stitch marker. Then compare the developing columns after every row. This prevents the common mistake of producing alternating bumps when the pattern requires uninterrupted vertical ribs.
What Happens If You Work Into the Hidden Top Loops?
Working into the hidden top loops after completing a post stitch can increase the row count by one stitch per occurrence. The fabric then widens, the edge slopes outward, and later pattern repeats stop lining up.
Many patterns still use those top loops intentionally. The instruction “FPdc around the next post, then dc in the next stitch” means both locations are active, while “FPdc around the next post, skip the next stitch” means the top V is deliberately unused.
Count the finished stitches, not just the visible raised columns. A post stitch can be easy to see while its associated top loop remains hidden behind the new yarn column.
Common Problems and Precise Corrections
The most common post-stitch errors involve identifying the wrong vertical strand, tightening the yarn before the post is fully formed, or treating every pattern’s skipped stitch as a universal rule. Each problem produces a recognizable fabric symptom.
| Symptom | Likely cause | Correction | Checkpoint |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stiff, compressed rib | Tension too tight | Pull up a taller loop | Compare post height |
| Growing row width | Top loops worked unintentionally | Follow the pattern’s skip instruction | Count after each row |
| Holes beside columns | Loose entry or oversized hook | Keep the post snug, not tight | Inspect the row underside |
| Leaning cables | Wrong target post | Count posts from the last crossing | Mark cable groups |
| Uneven ridge height | Mixed stitch heights | Match FPdc with BPdc or stated type | Measure three columns |
| Texture disappears | Dark, fuzzy, or busy yarn | Use smooth light yarn | Test a 10 cm swatch |
How Can You Keep the Fabric Flexible?
Keep the pull-up loop approximately as tall as the surrounding stitch before completing the yarn-over sequence. The mistake most people make is tightening immediately after wrapping the post, which shortens the stitch and locks the base fabric.
A 0.5 mm hook increase can help when a swatch is dense, but changing hook size also changes gauge. Record the hook, yarn, stitch count, and row count before substituting materials in a fitted project.
Blocking can relax wool and some plant fibers, but it cannot fully remove a structurally dense cable. Acrylic may respond to steam, yet direct heat can flatten relief or permanently alter the yarn.
Expert insight: Treat the post as a rail, not a hole. Place the hook around the entire vertical stem, then adjust loop height; searching for a top-loop opening is the fastest way to create inconsistent texture.
How Do You Prevent Edge Problems?
Use a consistent turning chain policy and decide whether the turning chain counts as a stitch before beginning. At the edge, place a marker in the first true stitch if the pattern’s chain-count convention is unclear.
A post stitch at the edge may not have enough surrounding fabric to remain upright. Many designers use an ordinary double crochet at each edge and reserve post stitches for the interior, which produces a straighter seam.
| Edge method | Typical result | Counting rule | Suitable project |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ordinary dc edge | Straight, stable side | Count edge dc as stated | Blanket panel |
| FPdc at edge | Raised but sometimes loose | Mark first post | Decorative scarf |
| BPdc at edge | Recessed side channel | Check turning chain | Ribbed rectangle |
| Two-stitch border | Firmest edge | Count both border stitches | Cardigan front |
How Do You Read a Post-Stitch Pattern?
Read the abbreviation, target, skip instruction, and repeat unit as separate pieces of information. “FPdc around next post” identifies the stitch type and location, but it does not tell you whether the next top stitch is also worked.
- Identify the base row and confirm that the posts are tall enough.
- Mark the right side before beginning a turned pattern.
- Locate the target post by counting from the previous stitch or cable crossing.
- Check whether the pattern says to skip the top stitch.
- Work one repeat slowly and count completed stitches.
- Compare the texture with the chart or photograph, if provided.
- Continue only after the repeat aligns vertically.
Charts can be clearer than prose for cables because crossing order matters. If a written instruction conflicts with the stitch count, pause before improvising; the issue may be a turning chain or a special edge instruction.
Frequently Asked Questions About What Is a Post Stitch in Crochet
Can You Make Post Stitches Into Single Crochet?
You can work around a single-crochet post, but the short stem gives limited room and often produces a cramped, shallow texture. Half double crochet and double crochet provide clearer posts for beginners. Use single-crochet post work only when a pattern specifically needs compact relief.
Do Post Stitches Use More Yarn Than Regular Crochet?
Post stitches typically use more yarn because the hook travels around the stitch body rather than straight through the top edge. A practical estimate is 10%-30% more yarn for comparable swatches, although spacing, stitch height, tension, and cable crossings can move the result outside that range.
Which Post Stitch Is Best for Beginners?
Front post double crochet is usually the easiest starting point because the target post is tall and the entry path is visible from the working side. Practice FPdc and BPdc in alternating pairs on a 20-stitch swatch before attempting cables or basketweave.
Why Does My Post Stitch Crochet Curl?
Curling usually comes from uneven tension, a tight foundation chain, dense post placement, or edge stitches that do not match the row height. Make a larger gauge swatch, loosen the first row, add stable edge stitches, and block the fabric before deciding whether the pattern itself is at fault.
Can Post Stitches Be Used in the Round?
Post stitches work well in the round for hats, collars, cuffs, and baskets. In a continuous round, use a marker to track the first stitch; in joined rounds, check whether the turning chain counts, because that decision affects the location of each raised column.
Are Post Stitches Reversible?
A rib made from alternating FPdc and BPdc can look attractive on both sides, but the two faces are not always identical. Cable motifs are usually directional, and a pattern designed for a public right side may show recessed shapes or different shadowing on the reverse.
Conclusion
A post stitch in crochet wraps around the vertical body of a previous stitch to move texture forward or backward, creating ribs, cables, basketweave, and structured fabric. Start with FPdc and BPdc in smooth yarn, count the top loops carefully, test gauge, and choose the technique when relief and moderate stretch matter more than maximum drape.